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Embroidery Techniques

KURINJI values craftmanship, traditions and the quality of handcrafted work.

Our collections include pieces decorated with some of the most historical embroidery techniques from India.

In collaboration with skilled local artisans, KURINJI presents a wide range of styles and needlework, which give tribute to the beauty of an ancient tradition.

Undying traditions
enrich our present



Bandhani (Hindi: बांधानी) is a type of tie-dye textile decorated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design.

The term bandhani is derived from the Sanskrit verbal root bandh (“to bind, to tie”).

The first example of the most pervasive type of Bandhani dots can be seen in the paintings of the 6th century depicting the life of Buddha found on the walls of the Ajanta Cave One in India.



What does Batik mean?

‘Amba’ means writing and ‘titik’ means straw.

Batik is a technique used to color fabrics and other items such as pottery. This dying technique consists in covering with wax all the areas that do not need to be dyed. Other waterproofing materials can be used: clay, resin, vegetable paste, starch.

Exhibited at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1900, the Indonesian Batik was met with success among the public and began to influence the taste of artists from all over the world.



Brocade is one of the many embroidery techniqeus that present intricate patterns which often include a selection of flowers, plants and other images representing natural and organic elements.

Brocade is used for many purposes:
• Upholstery
• Windows
• Four-poster bed
• Tapestries
• Furniture coverings
• Cummerbunds

It historically symbolizes opulence and luxury.


Aari embroidery refers to the thread craft that enhances the look of a fabric or product. This thread craft is generally done on natural fabrics with tight weaves. Embroidery designs of India are influenced by different cultures and have a flavor of their own. Indian embroidery is cherished by craftsmen and has the world swooning over them.

Aari embroidery is one of the many forms of embroidery originated in the Mughal era. It is done by stretching the fabric tightly over a wooden frame. A pen-like needle, that resembles a crochet needle is used to do the intricate Aari work.



Chikan is a delicate hand embroidery technique, worked on a variety of fabrics such as muslin, silk, chiffon, organza, net, and many others. The fabric cannot be too thick or hard, otherwise the embroidery needle will not pierce it.

The chikankari process includes the following steps: 
• Design
• Engraving the wooden block
• Hand block printing
• Hand embroidery
• Washing
• Refinement

This technique has been used since ancient times and it seems to find its roots in Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh, India. Some believe that this craft originated during the Mughal rule. The fabrics during the Mughal period were generally the soft malmal and muslin cotton. Chikankari was used to adorn them with splendid floral designs.



An Indonesian tie-dye technique.

The Ikat technique took its name from the Malay wordmengikat which means ‘to tie’. The strongest concentration of this textile production was in Indonesia, then expanded into the Western countries in the XX century.

Like Batik, Ikat is a resist-dyeing technique. In fact, yarns are bundled and bound with string then dyed to create patterns.

Usually, for batiks and other techniques, yarns are dyed after they are woven into the cloth. For Ikat, this process happens before weaving the yarns, thus creating a very complicated but beautiful process.



Jamdani originated in East Bengal region, currently known as Bangladesh. Partition saw migrant artisans re-settle in the current West Bengal, India, to continue to practice this fine ethnic art.

Jamdani is a cotton fabric with bright patterns, traditionally woven on a hand loom by craftsmen and apprentices of Dhaka. Jamdani is a weaving technique that requires time and work due to the richness and complexity of its motives.

The sari Jamdani is a symbol of identity, dignity and self-recognition and provides the wearer with a sense of cultural identity and social cohesion.



Legends say that in the past groups of nomad singers, musicians and painters called chitrakattis, travelled from village to village to spread the great stories of Hindu mythology.

They illustrated their accounts using large bolts of canvas painted on the spot with simple means and dyes extracted from plants.

Kalamkari comes form the word Kalam, which means ‘pen’, and Kari, ‘craftsmpanship’.

The pen is a sharp pointed bamboo stick padded with hair or cotton is tied with a string on one end to regulate the flow of color.



The Kanjivaram is reknown for its rich golden edges and dense brocades in contrasting colors.

Kanjivaram weaving is a craft that requires high skills and expertise: products treated with this technique are valued as one of the finest examples of hand-crafted textiles the world.

Believe it or not, the technology and process behind making this precious textile has been unchanged almost unchanged over many centuries.

Textiles and sarees made with this technique are characterized by gold-dipped silver or pure gold threads that are woven onto rich, bright silk.



Kantha embroidery involves stitching running stitches all over the design. The motifs can be folk, floral, animal and bird related or they can present geometrical figures.

Kantha embroidery can be done on all light and medium weight fabrics. Cotton and silk are best suited for this embroidery.

Kantha work originated centuries ago and it was used for making Kantha quilts using old saris.Indian women’s old saris were pieced together with small tiny stitches to transform them into beautiful creations.

Old clothes are given a fresh and beautiful life with this age old tradition.



Phulkari means working with flowers . It is an embroidery technique that involves floral themes. It was earlier restricted to decorating only shawls and Odhani (head scarves), but today it is used for multiple purposes.

There is reference of Phulkari in Vedas, Mahabharat, Guru Granth Sahib and folk songs of Punjab. The way we know it today, this technique has been popular since the 15th century.

Traditionally, Phulkari exclusively adorns clothing for women in the occasion of weddings and festivals, but lately it has also been introduced to the more casual fashion world.



Shisha embroidery is a type of applied decorative needlework characterised by tiny pieces of reflective material that are usually sewn on cloth.

The term Shisha derives from Persian: shisheh stands for ‘glass’. In parts of India this type of work is also known with the indian term Abhala Bharat.



Suzani is from the Persian, Suzan , which means needle. The art of making such textiles in Iran is called Suzandozi , needlework.

Common design motifs used foer this technique are the Sun and Moon discs, flowers, vine leaves, fruits, and occasionally fishes and birds.

The oldest surviving suzani date back to the late 18th century and early 19th century.

Suzani were traditionally made by Central Asian brides as part of their trousseau. They presented to the spouse on the wedding day.



Zardozi comes from two Persian words: zar or zarin, which means gold and dozes, which means sewing.

Zardozi embroidery was once used to embellish the attire of the Kings and the royals in India, thanks to its beauty. It was also used to adorn walls of the royal tents, scabbards, wall hangings as well as to decorate the looks of regal elephants and horses. Zardozi embroidery work involves intricate and elaborate designs using gold and silver threads. Later, embroidery artists started also using studded pearls and precious stones to enhance the magnificence of the work.