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Tradition is part of us. What we think, what we want, what we are today depends on the people that preceded us. But we are also immersed in the contemporary world, and tradition must integrate with our values ​​and become the starting point for our goals.

This is why traditional embroidery plays an important role in Kurinji’s creations.

Aari embroidery has its origins far back in time, perhaps to the twelfth century, but its spread is mainly linked to the dynasty of the Maghul emperors, which prospered in India between the early sixteenth and mid-nineteenth centuries. In particular, the Aari style is linked to the powerful Akbar empire (1556-1605), which dominated all of northern India, including Kashmir. His alliances brought Persian influence to Aari embroidery, as can still be seen today.

You can use heavier or lighter fabrics such as silk, cotton, but also velvet. The drawing can be done freehand on the canvas, or on a sheet of paper: in this case it is traced through small holes made on the outline of the figures. The fabric is spread on a frame similar to a cradle, and tightly fixed to the four corners to eliminate creases: more craftsmen can work around the frame, speeding up production.

The embroidery is carried out by means of a needle similar to a crochet, called aar: its name derives from this instrument. The aar is passed through the fabric and the stitch is created with a cotton or silk thread. You can also use zari, gold or silver metallic thread, and add beads or sequins to embellish the embroidery. Once the work is finished, the metal wires are beaten with a small hammer to regularize them and give the figures a fuller appearance.

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